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Books, authors and literary debates come back to animate Venice and to celebrate its 1.600 years of history

Twenty-six writers from fourteen different countries, book pages being leafed through, authors in comparison, and exchanges of looks and words. This is Incroci di Civiltà (Civilization Intersections), the international literature Festival occurring from the 3rd to the 6th November in Venice. It is created and organised by Ca’ Foscari university and, this year, takes place during the Venetian celebrations for its 1.600th anniversary.

“Incroci di civiltà” returns after a year of forced distance away from the scene and away from being in touch with the audience, with a live edition allowing again Venetian people and students to hear directly the authors’ talks, to see them live, and to debate with them during the signing session. This is the fourteenth edition which represents a comeback leading off the actual restart of the event, despite the caution of current provisional situation due to the pandemic.

Therefore, during these four days, Venice becomes a melting point of histories, opinions, and cultures from all over the world: Germany, Italy, India, Netherlands, France, United States, Serbia, Turkey, China, Afghanistan, Republic of the Congo, Argentina, and Haiti.

Among the authors involved, the Congolese writer and scholar Wilfrid N'Sondé, the Dutch Jan Brokken e H.M. van den Brink, the Canadian with Istrian origins Caterina Edwards, the Chinese writer and screenwriter Caterina Edwards. Beyond the book pages of the Argentenian Rodrigo Fresan, of the American Heddi Goodrich, of Tiziano Scarpa, and of Vinicio Capossela, protagonist of the grand finale in the Santa Margherita Auditorium.

The first event launching the Festival of the Scuola Grande di San Rocco the 3rd at 18 is dedicated to Nicole Krauss, New Yorker globetrotter. The 4th November the cultural exhibition gets to the heart with busy schedule full of events in an exclusive location in the city of Venice.

According to tradition, also in this current edition the most famous authors and the emerging writers will be matched in a sequence of presentations, debates, and reflections in which literature will be the protagonist in every language of the world.

The 2021st edition (realised in cooperation with Fondazione di Venezia, the Municipality of Venice with the partnership of Francesca Bortolotto Possati, Eni, Fondazione Musei Civici e Marsilio) also presents another important event: Sunday the 7th at 11.30, the tribute to Carnevale by Maurizio Scaparro (the responsibility of Maria Ida Biggi and Piermario Vescovo, with special appearance by Roberto Bianchin).

All the events organised by Incroci di Civiltà have free entrance with previous online reservation on  www.incrocidicivilta.org available from the 21th October. In order to participate, a valid Covid-19 green certification (Green Pass) is needed.

The scheduled events of the Festival are available on the Incroci di civiltà website.

 

 

The art of lacemaking in Burano: a long, precise, and precious work of sharing

Venice, 15 October 2021 – Fast step, hands ready to sew, a tiny wooden seat with footboards, curtains open overlooking the city’s square, glasses and tools of the trade. This is how the lacemakers of Burano prepare themselves for another afternoon working with their needle, thread, and their personal little pillow, in order to create another work of art part of Italian history.

They chat together, one in front of the other, talk with anyone curious to know more about the secrets of their art. They make fun of each other saying “she’s the chatty one” and “she’s the best one”. They’ve known each other forever but still, at 80 years old, have the same light in their eyes when showing someone a little hand-made lace rose; that very same light that they used to have when they were kids, when their grandmas gave them, for the first time, a very thin needle, and a white cotton thread.

Love and passion that Burano’s masters of lace have for their art can be felt and seen from their movements, their silences, their concentration, and their red eyes. They never take their gaze off their work. Their hands know, by heart, how to intertwine to create, beginning from a drawing on paper, a precise and unbreakable work of art. We can feel it from the fact that they still sit, as volunteers, at their age, inside what once used to be the flourishing Scuola di Merletto di Burano (Burano Lace School), today a museum that carries on a tradition that runs the risk of being forgotten.

There are just six of them left in Burano, and among them Mary Costantini and Romana Memo who, on the occasion of Venice 1600 years, want to tell their story and their work as lacemakers. What keeps them together, as in the past, is the passion for a job that is shaped by sharing spaces, time, and love for what they do. Lacemakers work alone but together with others, sit in front of their house with neighbours, grandmas, mothers, nephews and, as it used to be in the past, with friends, chatting with one another and recalling memories.

«I have been doing this job since I was 6» - recalls Mary Costantini, master of the lacemaker in Burano – when you are a kid, you do laces as a game, although this is, as a job is very peculiar and if you want to do it, you must love it. My mother wanted me to learn how to embroider but she didn't like it. I didn’t want to be neither a seamstress nor an embroiderer, I am terrible at it. With lace is different, I can work from morning to evening without even realizing that time has passed. The lace was my path and now I can say that time proved me right »

Burano lace creation stages are seven. We begin from a drawing and later we proceed with the warping, which sees two layers of fabric overlapped with three sheets of straw paper, a sheet with a drawing and another sheet of wax paper, sewn following every angle of the drawing. Then, the first stage begins, which is the base, the so-called Ghipur and the punto Venezia (Venice stitch), characterized by little string bars that connect different parts of the drawings. There is also the punto Burano, a tiny string net, the relief and in the end, in the final stage: the punto cappa con picò, the scalloping.

In the past, every lacemaker of the Scuola di Merletto di Burano (Burano Lace School) specialized in one specific stage of the work. So, there were seven different specializations: the drawing experts, the warping experts, Ghipur experts, those who just did the Venice stitch and those who just did the Burano stitch, the master of relief and scalloping. Although everyone knew every step of the process, they used to focus just on one step, because by repeating the same gesture on and on they became faster and more precise, essential elements that turn this textile tool, produced in a tiny venetian island into one of the most important and appreciated handicrafts of the world.

«It appears to be all the same – says Mary while recalling the story of the Lace School where she studied – although any stitch has its own way to be. Once there used to be a lot of work to do, and every person studying at the school used to specialize on a specific stitch. I have always loved to do the first stitch, the base of the whole work, the so-called “Ghipur”; that was my job. Times have changed and so today I do the whole process, from beginning to end ».

The lace of Burano is traditionally made with white cotton string. Cotton is the best material with which we can do this job since it is very resistant and flexible. Moreover, choosing the white colour, apart from being an aesthetic choice, has a structural meaning since the colour maintains the structure of the string solid. So, once finished, the lace of Burano becomes an object that lasts through years and washes without being damaged.

« The latest news about lace – say the masters of laces Mary and Romana – is that it has been decided to use a colourful string, although this tends to break and fray. We work by doing a lot of tiny knots and passages, so the quality of the string is very important. Differences between the use of white and colourful strings are very clear and for this reason, we never use colourful strings although it has become a trend now »

Anyone who wants to see them working or wants to ask them for a lesson to learn how to do the Venice stitch can found them at the first floor of the Museo del Merletto di Burano (Lace Museum of Burano), sit on their wooden chairs, the same that they used when they were kids and were attending the first lesson at the most famous school of laces of the world. They come in pairs, in the afternoon, sit, work, and stay at disposal of anyone who wants to dedicate little time to this precious craft.

Patience, precision, and a very ancient technique handed down from hand to hand which is stil, today, untouched: these are the ingredients of the lace of Burano, a product that once finished is unbreakable. Clothes get ruined, as happens for fabrics, embroidery split apart, colourful strings get thinner, but a lace of Burano is forever. It is here that this precious art is running the risk of disappearing while leaving, through an apparently fragile but indeed unbreakable product, a sign in time and history.

 

LINK VIDEO INTERVISTA

https://we.tl/t-XXhT0LZKiI

The witches of Venice, between magic filters, legends and tortures: stories of women banished from the Serenissima

Venice, October 29th, 2021 - Spells, blood of the condemned, love potions. A handful of beans and a prayer to the Virgin Mary to understand if the beloved man was faithful, a glass of water lit by a candle, a palm reading. Witches and soothsayers according to the Inquisition – in reality illiterate women subjected to terrible tortures such as whipping, cutting off of the ears, or the ban from the city. But they were never burnt alive at the stake, not in Venice, which in its punishments always behaved differently, never truly subjugated to the Church. On the scariest night of the year, the famous night of Halloween, lives and faces of Venetian witches re-emerge from the State Archives: stories of stregizzi, sabbaths, gatherings of witches and wizards, imprisoned spirits, sexual magic, rituals and even legends handed down through the centuries by the Serenissima Republic, which this year celebrates the 1600th anniversary of its mythical foundation. No "trick or treat", but women in the flesh who, behind the doors of the narrow Venetian streets, performed occult practices of magic. Suffice it to say that, during the sixteenth century, there were about 1600 trials in the city for "strigaria, maleficio, arte magica and superstizione" (i.e. sorcery, curses, witchcraft and superstitions). The witches were tried by the court of the Inquisition, which was based in St Mark's Square, while the punishments and tortures were inflicted publicly, between the two columns of St Mark's. As explained by Manuel Meneghel, a tour guide in Venice, most of them were actually prostitutes or courtesans who mainly produced love spells. 

"The Jewish Ghetto, in Cannaregio, played an important part in the spread of black magic texts, such as the Clavicola Salomonis", explains Meneghel, "The documents of the Inquisition allow us to locate the homes of these women accused of being witches. We know their names and why they were tried". Among them, the courtesan and sorceress Emilia Catena, who was accused of having practiced necromancy rites on the corpse of a newborn child. She denied it, but admitted to having done it on a cat and was exiled. In this period – we are talking about the 1580s – Emilia invested part of her earnings in buying lands on the Venetian mainland and thus became an agricultural entrepreneur, a rare figure in 16th century Venice. Even the poetess Veronica Franco herself underwent a trial for witchcraft, from which she was acquitted".

Sometimes, however, the women remain in the shadows, as it is the case of Giovanna Semolina, the "neighbourhood" witch who was contacted by wives to keep their husbands away from courtesans. According to official documents, Semolina prescribed the making of a lazzaro puzzolente: a concoction based on cat excrement, wolf fat and earth collected between the two columns of Saint Mark’s, the place where capital punishment was carried out (therefore, being soaked in the blood of the condemned, it was believed to bear magical power). Such poultice was then used to grease the doors of the home of the courtesan who was the object of the curse, and the devil was invoked to make the odour pervade the whole house and the courtesan herself, so that the husband would no longer be able to approach her and betray his wife. "This has come down to us - explains Meneghel - because a husband denounced the witch Semolina, and even his own wife had some problems for having used such methods". The official documents also highlight a more "intimate" Venice that is otherwise hardly apparent. "For example, the 15th century witch Graziosa was condemned for having made a Contarini nobleman fall in love with her through a love potion", he recounts, "so we learn about the practices of erotic magic to which people were devoted at the time, with love potions that even contained parts of navel dust". Testimonies of witchcraft also come from Giacomo Casanova himself, who admits being the protagonist of a series of sexual magic practices.

Venetian legends that have been handed down for centuries are also linked to the world of witchcraft. "There’s the story of a boat leaving for the Sabbath every night with 7 witches on board - says the guide – One time, a curious neighbour decided to hide himself inside the boat: but when the witches arrived and pronounced the magic phrase "away all seven", the boat did not leave, because there were 8 people on board. Not knowing that they had a guest, the women then began to think why the magic phrase didn't work. Hypothesizing that one of them might be pregnant, they said "away all eight" – and the boat left the shore and reached Alexandria in Egypt, where the Sabbath was held. On his return, our mysterious passenger brought back from his journey the twig of a date tree he had found there, which allowed him to prove his adventure". But also the presence of the famous "Moors" in the homonymous campo is linked to a legend of witchcraft. It is said, in fact, that the Moors were merchants transformed into stone by an old woman, cheated by them on the value of some fabrics, who invoked the intercession of Mary Magdalene. "There are trial papers - explains Meneghel - with lists of formulas that prove that the witches did not only ask for the intercession of spirits to perform magic, but also that of the saints". And magic is often linked to the name of the island of Murano.

"Murano is often connected to sorcery. For example, we have evidence of a sabbath that took place on the island, a libertine gathering attended by noblemen and noblewomen, who are said to have mated with a statue with blasphemous features. Even the legend of the boat "away all seven" takes place in San Canzian, coincidentally where the ferry to the island of Murano used to leave from". The sestiere of Dorsoduro also preserves a mysterious story: the legend of the "alarm clock" in calle de la Toletta. As a matter of fact, it is said that this old alarm clock, which still hangs today, marked the time when spells were performed by a witch living in the area. When the woman died, the house was abandoned, as people thought it was haunted by ghosts and that strange noises and phenomena were happening. Legend has it that a barber who practiced in that same street, in order to spite someone, had asked to hang an alarm clock on the building and since then the unexplained events stopped bothering the inhabitants. Removed the alarm clock after many years, the phenomena of black magic returned and ceased only when another alarm clock was placed.

 

50 posters on the Venetian walls telling the island and its 1.600 years of history

Visiting Venice through black and white pictures when it is immersed in the fog, or when captured by a high-altitude shot. Or, why not, even seen through the balaustrades in San Giorgio Isle, or in a postcard shot of one of the most photographed bridges in the world, Rialto.

Historic monuments telling Venice are shown in an uncommon exposition, prepared along the city walls: 50 posters provide a Qr Code allowing the spectator who is just passing in front of it to become a photographer, at the same time.

The open air exhibition is called “Beauty promotion. Venice 1.600”, which reminds everybody the international promotion of the Serenissima realised by Enit – Nation Agency of Tourism.

By capturing the Qr Code shown on the posters, a specific section of the exhibition will appear, on the web-app tuaitalia.it. In this virtual space, any spectator can visualise some of the posters and challenge their personal knowledge concerning what Venice and its surrounding territory may represent.

“Beauty promotion. Venice 1.600” was born thanks to the cooperation between the sponsor and three institutions of the territory – the Municipality of Venice, Ca’ Foscari University, and the Venice Pavilion – on the occasion of celebrating the 1.600 years of Venice.

“The open air exhibition of Venice belongs to the project started in 2019, with the objective of enhancing its centennial and cultural heritage ENIT. It is composed of archival documents, among which authentic works of art, such as reproductions, original lithographies, and historical relics showing the evolution of Italian customs and traditions” - the President Enit Giorgio Palmucci sais.

The exhibition is divided into six sections: Art and architecture, Genre paintings, Celebrations and festivals, Isle and craftsmanship, Cortina, Territory, and Palladian Villas.

The historic posters are framed by a Venetian red background in order to celebrate the birth of the Serenissima, city of art currently hosting the whole exhibition. The pictures chosen to be exhibited are selected from Enit, the digital histotrical archive. They refer to black and white photos and posters of the ‘30s and ‘60s, and also to published historical journal covers of the ‘20s and ‘60s belonging to the agency.

Beyond the open air tour, the exhibition moves on paper: for this reason, a catalogue is being realised by containing the images of the open air exhibition together with a large section constituing a real journey through the ancient Venice.

 

The unknown soldier: a century ago the train journey of the unnamed soldier, whose carriage passed through Venice and Mestre stations

Venice, October 28, 2021- A train still alive in the collective memory, a one-way trip, a carriage carrying the unnamed body of a young soldier who lost his life in war. A train that passed through 120 stations, from Aquileia to Rome, and slowly crossed all the regions to allow the thousands of people waiting on the tracks to take their hats off, as a sign of respect, to get down on their knees and throw a flower, while tears wiped off their eyes. A symbolic journey to honor the 650 thousand people that died in the battlefields, and the many missing bodies, to whom their wives, mothers and fathers were never able to give a proper burial.

A hundred years have passed, but their memory is still fresh in our minds. It was 8AM on October 29, 1921, when the train convoy began its journey from the Railway Station of Aquileia, carrying over five days the body of the “unknown soldier”, all the way to Rome, passing through Venice and Mestre railway stations. A very touching journey, able to unite Italy in grief, to pay tribute to a young man ready to sacrifice himself for the sake of his country. A journey that is also about a woman, Triestine Maria Bergamas, whose son deserted the Austrian army to fight with Italy, chosen to represent the pain of all Italian mothers, who was asked to select one of the eleven coffins containing soldiers remained without identity and found in the war theaters in which Italy fought.

The oak wooden coffin was placed on the gun carriage and traveled in a wagon specially designed by the architect Guido Cirilli. It arrived in Rome on November 4, 1921, and the shrine is preserved in the Altar of the Fatherland, which still today symbolizes all the war cemeteries scattered throughout the front line. The unknown soldier was awarded the gold medal, with this motivation: “Worthy son of a courageous ancestry and of a thousand-year-old civilization, he resisted in the trenches revealing his courage in the most violent battles and he died on the battlefield, hoping for a victory for his homeland”.

Since 1919, November 4 has been a national holiday, dedicated to the memory of the many Italian soldiers who lost their lives for the freedom of their country.

“Stelle e viaggi”: Venetian astronomical knowledge in the 13th century

Venice, October 26, 2021- A celestial navigation between the illustration of St. Mark’s Basilica, and their astronomical references, such as the four “Moors”, this time designed in a unique new way, or the main doorway revealing the presence of Venetian merchants in Indonesia. In the “most beautiful drawing room of the world”, as we say, stars and constellations, are represented not just according to the Western usage, but in a new fascinating blend of elements and languages coming from different places, as a reminder of Venice special location in the Mediterranean, recalling the long trips from the North of Europe to Asia, India, and China.

On Thursday, October 28, the exhibition “Stelle e viaggi 2. Esplorazioni, iconografia, astronomia a San Marco nel 1200” (Stars and trips. Searches, iconography, astronomy at St. Mark in 1200), opens at “Magazzino del Sale 3”, organized by the Academy of Fine Arts of Venice, on the occasion of the celebrations for the 1600 years of the city.

The exhibition, curated by the art historian and professor Gloria Valais, thanks to the high-definition close-up photographs, sculptures, 3D models, video reconstruction and holograms- created by students and professors specialized in the old and new techniques of the Academy- reveals amazing new discoveries that tells a tale of Venetians’ astronomical knowledge in the 13th century. A language of celestial navigation, so common at the time not only among travelers, but among the entire population, essential in journeys, even if short, as well as in fishing, hunting and agriculture.

“Stelle e viaggi 2”, comes in the aftermath of the first exhibition, which took place five years ago, dedicated to the archway depicting the sky, adorning the main doorway of St. Mark’s Basilica, created by an unknown artist, in 1240. This second date offers the visitor surprising new discoveries, concerning the well-known illustration “Ciclo dei Mesi” (Cycle of Month), on the main portal of the Basilica, and the Cappella di Sant'Isidoro (Chapel of St. Isidore), within. Thanks to new technologies, the Cycle of Month turns out to be a surprising representation of the night sky, where stars and constellations follow each other, marking the hours and times of the year.

The art installations “polychromy and possible metallic applications” (Policromia e possibili applicazioni metalliche”, “Sunrise and sunset: light effects” (L’alba e il tramonto: effetti di luce), and “the seasons” (Il corso delle stagioni), highlight other details present on the main doorway, such as the precious polychrome, now-lost, and the metallic applications supports, that traced a celestial map, creating a lavish scenic effect. The public will be able to admire, thanks to specifically designed holograms, the constellations in the sky over seasons and, through animated films, the sculptures will turn into astronomic reproductions of the sky, while two natural size reproductions, created by students by 3D printings, depict the precious polychrome, erased by time.

St. Mark’s Basilica also speaks us of Indonesia, thanks to a low relief dating back to the first half of 1200: the “Arcosolio Sant’Alipio” within the Sant’Isidoro Chapel. In a fragment of it, a depiction of the Gemini constellation appears, not in separate figures, but in a pair of Siamese twins with a fish tail, together with two small unicorn-dragons. An extremely interesting illustration, considering the period to which it dates back, which places Venetian’s travelers on the edge of the Pacific, farther than we had ever imagined.

On display also a new version of the “Four Moors” (Quattro Mori), depicted in a different way, with original astronomical references.

The exhibition will be open until January 15, from Thursday to Saturday, 11AM to 5 PM.

The history of the Bussolai of Burano, from a traditional family to a collective heritage

Wake up at dawn, grains of flour in the air, scent of melted butter, the oven spreading out the heat at the right temperature to create a crunchy topping, and a soft content. The attitude belonging to somebody who perfectly knows his job and how to create a perfect s-shaped biscuit from a formless dough.

Just by entering the historic Carmelina Palmisano’s bakery in Burano means immersing in a world made of ancient traditions, of passion and, especially, of family relationships. Giorgio Senigallia knows it very well. He is Carmelina’s husband, business owner, and baker since he was ten years old. In this place, a little boy became a man by starting to learn a new job: the pastry chef, beyond an expert husband in the preparation of bussolai.

«In the past, after school, people used to go to work so as to learn a new job – the pastry chef Giorgio Senigallia tells – Tommaso Palmisano taught me everything I know. Later, he also would become my father-in-low. Firstly, I learned how to become baker, then a pastry chef. Now, at the age of eighty-two years old, I am still here»

So far, beyond forming part of the 1.600 years of Venice, the tradition of these shortcrust biscuits have been spreading out even outside the territory of Burano, reaching numerous foreign countries. It all started more than ninety years ago, thanks to two brothers loving the scent of baked bread and biscuits, craftwork, and looking people becoming enthusiast when tasting their creations.

During the first twenty years of the 1.900s, a family from Basilicata before moved to Caorle and after to Burano. Several differences transpired by passing from a city in Southern Italy to a city made of coloured houses, which is surrounded by water, and crossed by narrow canals. In spite of encountering many new habits to become comfortable with, the universal love for bread and good sweets, and for its power to join people with the vanilla aroma or bread fragrance remained. In this manner, two brothers decided to start two bakeries in 1926, with their Southern blood living in a Venetian islet among fishermen. Later, the two famous bakeries became artisanal bakeries, which are still present in Venice. The two are continuing to spread the confectionery tradition beyond the typical bussolai, one of the main Venetian sweet symbols in the world.

Traditionally, the bussolai were only used to be prepared in a specific time of the year. On the contrary, now these famous biscuits are prepared everyday, beyond being available in almost every supermarket and store shelf in Venice and in Veneto. The bussolai can have a classical circular shape or a modern s-shaped pattern. Therefore, they can follow their old tradition or can be stuffed according to the modern era. Whatever their old or new features are, everybody loves them. Just by tasting a bussolà, people would immediately feel the typical Venetian vibe, in whatever country of the world they are.

«The bussolai large production as known today, was born after the war together with the beginning of tourism – Giorgio Senigallia underlines – however, once a year, these sweets were prepared by all the families in Burano, during the days preceding Easter. When the biscuits were ready, were taken to one of the four bakeries in the city, in order to be cooked in the ovens which people usually didn’t have at home. Eventually, they were stored until Easter Sunday»

According to traditions, the bussolà have to present a circular shape, whereas, at a later time, the “s variation” was introduced, even becoming the most famous one. They can be prepared with bigger o smaller dimensions, but the original recipe of these biscuits remains the same. The dough is simple, because it is formed by a very fat shortcrust pastry containing a lot of butter, egg yolks, sugar, flour, and some vanilla aroma.

1 kg of flour contains 12 egg yolks, 6 hundred grams of sugar, and 3 hundred grams of butter. The dough is dry kneaded with no water. Once amalgamated, wrap small parts of the dough and then connect them in order to obtain their typical circular shape. Contrarily, if you want to obtain the “s-shaped” one, continue to deform the dough just by imitating the letter s.

«Nowadays, the production of this sweet can be realised either machined-made industrially or homemade – Giorgio Senigallia says – Here in Burano everything continues to be created by hand, such as in the past, and we create bigger bussolai. In order to satisfy large production’s requirements, we need machines. This is the reason why we created in Jesolo a pastry laboratory entirely dedicated to the production of bussolai. Currently, my daughter is working in the laboratory. So she is maintaining our traditional profession»

From being a biscuit only belonging to fishermen’s families, the bussolà started to become a biscuit available for everyone. First, this vanilla-flavoured sweet originated in an Easter tradition and, secondly, entered in people’s everyday habits by always maintaining the same flavour and the same fragrant texture of Burano and of its great history.

 

 

Discovering Noale, the medieval village that became a strategic stronghold for the Serenissima Republic

Venice, October 21, 2021- Changing the course of a river to protect the beating heart of a city. Creating an archipelago made of eleven islands and fifteen bridges to prevent the enemy from attacking the castle and the fortress. This, and much more, is hidden behind the walls, the waterways, and the streets of Noale, the little medieval village that still today hands down an important piece of the 1600-years old history of Venice.

A work of expertise, all the uniqueness of a city specifically designed by men: Noale is the result of an engineering work of great technological value, carried out throughout an intense and meticulous study of the land on which the city was decided to raise. This is how, by putting a perimeter all around the village, and considering every slope of the ground, as to make water naturally flow out of its canals, it was created an impenetrable stronghold, which captured the Serenissima Republic’ attention, and contributed safeguarding Venice by enemies, during its phase of expansion in the mainland.

The importance of this land-based Venetian treasure, is confirmed by the fortress and towers still present in the town which, still today, tell the history of a place that lived its most flourishing period in the Middle Ages, when the “Tempesta” noble family decided to create a strategic stronghold along the banks of the Marzenego river, at the turn of Padua, Treviso and Venice, as strategic point from which to move soldiers and knights.

The path that goes from the Bell Tower, all along through the archipelago and up to the Clock Tower, allows visitors to retrace, although only through imagination, the history of Noale and of its ancient but cutting-edge water and land defensive systems.

While walking along the banks, you are suddenly plunged back into the past: craftsmen, scribes, blacksmiths, and carpenters, dressed up in period costumes, are scattered all the way along the path, together with characters in costume performing in medieval dances and shows.

History and natural beauty mix harmoniously along the banks of the canals that surround the heart of Noale: the Island of the Fortress. Rows of trees and a water moat surround the complex defensive structure dating back 1245. A fortress whose construction took decades and that still today stands above the town, enclosed within the archipelago canals, dug by the noble family that used to live there to defend the city. High crenellated walls, banks and ditches rise three meters above the ground floor, in all their majesty. A precious and tangible example of fortified town, which today is subject of a partial restoration, that has been, over centuries, residence of Venetian noblemen as well as prestigious administrative headquarter, after the handover to the Serenissima Republic, in the fourteenth century.

A typical Venetian treasure, a fortified medieval center, entirely based on water, where you can admire one of the best-preserved urban systems of the Veneto region. 

In Japan typical sweets from the Serenissima

Venice, 15th June 2021 The road leading to the Paese del Sol Levante smells like eggs, milk, flour, and butter. From Venice to Japan passing through centuries of traditions. Venice is beloved all over the world, as a matter of fact. The fact that typical sweets are greatly appreciated so that a Venetian bakery has been launched in Otaru seems to be a curious story. Surely not for Franco Colussi, colled “Nono”, that means grandfather in Venetian dialect. He is a 86-year-old man who goes to his artisanal bakery every day in Dorsoduro, near to the Accademia and to the famous Ponte dei Pugni in order to create his home-made typical sweets of the Serenissima. Now as then, in a Venice which is celebrating its 1.600 years.

Franco proudly wears his pastry chef’s hat, showing some Japanese signs on it. He smiles when he remembers this young girl: Ogata Francesca Eri, who opened a bakery specialised in the creation of traditional Venetian sweets, in Otaru.

“So many letters have arrived at the bakery, in Italian, because a professor has helped her. She asked me if she could attend during my work hours, but I’ve never asked her  – he tells  – suddenly, I was fed up with it and I answered by saying that the workshop was too small, with no room enough. She insisted on that by asking to watch from outside, and I said yes”. Every day, the girl has arrived at 5 a.m., outside the entrance of the workshop, in calle Lunga San Barnaba.

“The first day she remained standing outside, more or less 4 hours. But later, my wife insisted on letting her get inside, so I accepted  – he fondly remembers  – she has taken notes about everything, even about the movements of my hands. I asked her why she didn’t take photos and she answered because she didn’t know if she could. She took two cameras out and started taking pictures of everything. So she learned to prepare our biscuits and, eventually, opened a Venetian bakery. We’re still in touch. Later I went to Japan, as well. She’s an incredible girl. We know that she also prepares “focacce”, but we didn’t taste them.

The first time that Ogata Francesca Eri entered in Franco Colussi’s bakery was during a journey to Italy. This country started fascinating her when the Perugia team bought the football player Hidetoshi Nakata.

“The bakery was described in an article presented in the tourist guide “Viaggiare in Italia come se ci vivessi”” – she remembers – since I’ve decided that my objective was both to travel and taste traditional sweets. I visited Milan, Venice, Florence, and Rome, and I tasted all of them. However, once back in Japan, the only sweet I wanted to taste again was the fugassa made by Mr. Franco. With the passing of the days, my desire became even stronger, until I thought to learn to prepare it”. In spite of being prepared for the worse, the young girl decided to write a letter to the Colussi bakery. “They answered me by thanking me but also feeling sorry, because even by personally reaching Venice, they wouldn’t let me get into the kitchen and learn the fugassa recipe – she continues to tell – for Mr. Franco I was a stranger and also a foreigner: it was normal to be refused. However, I couldn’t give up and, for this reason, I wrote another letter in which I informed the bakery that I would have come to Venice. Meanwhile, I was also looking for a way to reach Venice”. With a low budget available and about a three-month-stay, Ogata Francesca Eri proudly started her new adventure. The day after her arrival Venice, she immediately went to Franco’s workshop. Ten years later the young girl opened a pastry bar in Otaru. The town is located in the Hokkaidō isle, in the Northern Japan. Hokkaidō. Beyond being the place where Ogata Francesca Eri was born and grew up, in addition, it favours sweets leavening for its geographical position.

“Besides, the quality of dairy products and of the wheat in Hokkaidō is the most refined all over Japan – she explains – even though Venice and Otaru are not “twin towns”, also here you can find a flourishing glass industry, a narrow canal and, surprisingly, also a Venetian museum. This is the reason why I opened my own bakery here”.

 

 

Franco Colussi’s Artisan Bakery

The scent flooding the workshop is comparable to a magic flute for mice: when you start walking through Calle Lunga San Barnaba, it’s impossible to choose the wrong calle, because your senses get activated and your nose follows the trail of the fragrance. Franco is there, with his lively eyes, his kindness, and manners is able to make you feel home. Inside there are three workers belonging to the Colussi’s famility. The three generations are: Franco, who is the bakery’s inventor in 1956, then his daughter Linda, and his granddaughter Marina. Marina – 29 years old, with a classical high school diploma and after ten years working in close contact with her grandfather – she already knows all the Venetian bakery’s secrets.

“I thought she came just provisionally after school  – he smiles  – actually, I found out that she went home to do her homework. Ten years ago I’ve been teaching bakery at the Bargarigo institute, and it could mean that I gave her two or three heavy injections of love towards this subject matter. I was totally unaware of it. So, one day, for her birthday she didn’t desire any kind of present, but a kneading machine”.

While Franco is talking, he doesn’t stop slicing – by-hand, obviously – a long and tapered loaf of bread from which he obtains the baicoli, maybe the most known and exported biscuits.

“The baicoli are made of sourdough, exactly like how they were originally prepared before the introduction of the brewer’s yeast – he tells – and we still slice them by-hand. The whole process of preparation of the baicoli takes 30 hours, such as the fugassa, the Venetian focaccia bread. Just kneading them and leaving their dough rest is not enough. Instead, you have to control them every three hours, you have to take care of them”. The yeast is very old, but its dating is difficult to establish: it is the same used by Franco when he’s been working in “Bonifacio” bakery in Murano. His old master gave him some of it as aid for the starting of his new activity. Therefore, dating it is so difficult.

Venetian sweets

The Colussi bakery is specialised in “old stuff”, like Franco said. A few products but only and exclusively belonging to the Venetian tradition. Here you can still find the zaleti, the bussolà forte di Murano, the savoiardi, the buranelli, the amaretti, even the pevarini, beyond the baicoli, the focaccia, and the little spumiglie. Franco explains that all of them are dry sweets and biscuits, because once people were used to immersing them in the Cyprus wine, a fortified wine, or in the cream.

Venetian pastry chefs are internationally renowned. In 1493 they reunited and created an association, the “Scaleteri”, with their Mariegole (a statute). Two reasons are needed to explain the origin of its name: the first one is referred to the typical overlapped puff pastries like small stairs, the second one is attributed to the structure of the baking oven, whereby the oven was located at a different height level in comparison to current ovens. It had a hole and, in order to get out of it, people had to jump out. This is why stairs were integrated later.

The Venetian fugassa, the most appreciated sweet in the world

Talking about sweets, Venice is known worldwide for its focaccia, which is different from the panettone or the pandoro. It is softer and it even make people think not having eaten it, like Franco says. Thanks to its dough, the focaccia can keep intact for many days. “But no, it doesn’t keep untouched, sure  – he smiles  – when you start eating it, it’s finished right away”.

It is not matter of doses, Franco clarifies. Because the doses are reported in every book of the world, even in the Internet. “The quantity  – he says  – is comparable to a score: you can have the scores of Bach, Chopin, Beethoven, and you start to play. But the majority of people can’t realise that the space between a note and the next one is music. Such as a poem: if you read it without respecting the punctuation, it doesn’t mean anything. Let’s give an example even more simple: a ball of yarn and two knitting needles, ten right needleworks and ten reversed. The result would never be the same from a person to another. Returning to the topic of music: just having the score and the violin doesn’t make you able to play like Uto Ughi o like Paganini”.

Even in Japan the Venetian fugassa is the more loved sweet. “Everybody really loves it – Ogata Francesca Eri confirms – so as to acquire the skills to realise it, I’ve visited Venice for 10 years. When I prepare it, I show all my enthusiasm and I always keep in my heart Franco’s words: Passion makes every effort lighter”.

Venetian frittelle

The frittelle were the most popular sweet among Venetian people. Currently, people use to eat them only during Carnival celebrations, but once they were used to preparing them in every convivial circumstance. “A wedding, an engagement, just somebody who came and visit you – Franco tells – the frittelle meant something beautiful, they were the synonym of celebration. Besides, the Venetian frittella have a hole in the centre, although people usually think that the frittella shaped like a ball is the original one. Nowadays, the frittelle are not only locally appreciated, but also nationally, whereas abroad the focaccia is the winner.

The secret

“The secret of preparing tasty sweets is that they have to like to me, that I’m a pastry chef for 75 years and I still eat them – Franco concludes – If I like them, since I am sickened of everything, it means that the sweets will like to the client too. And to taste good it does not have to be fat, but it has to be light”.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Venice city of light, public lighting anticipates the other great Italian cities by almost half a century

Venice, 19th October 2021 – Narrow and dark streets, corners and ravines where thieves malicious hid. Today it seems impossible, but once Venice was a very dangerous city. And when the sun went down, it was easy to get lost, fall off bridges, end up in canal, or be pray to bad guys. The shops and houses were built entirely of wood and it was therefore forbidden to light lamps or fires because of the ever-frequent danger of fires. The story of how and when Venice was “illuminated”, from the first lanterns to modern LED lamps, is ancient and full of curiosity. In the year in which the city celebrates its foundation, in 421, the cultural centre Candiani (in collaboration with the Fondazione Neri spa Museo Italiano della Ghisa and Servizio Impianti Venezia del Comune di Venezia) has wanted to enclose it in an exhibition, on the fourth floor, which traces the evolution of public lighting. “Venezia città di luce” – through historical and contemporary panels, texts and images – is a historical excursus of a city illuminated due to the installation of public lamps first oil, in the XVIII century, then gas, during the XIX century, and finally electric in the early XX century. Venice, which in 2021 celebrates a 1600-year birthday, was therefore one of the first cities to equip itself with primitive public lighting, anticipating by almost half a century the other great Italian cities.

Dates back to 1128, a measure adopted by the city for the lighting of streets and channel the dark of Venice, which led to the construction of the first lumen able to shed light in the night: the doge Domenico Michiel ordered that in the night, in areas that are not safe, there were “cesendelli impizadi”, that is, the “small fireflies”, the small lights oil hanging on the walls of the houses. All expenses were borne by the Republic, while the maintenance was entrusted to the parish priest who were asked to have small votive capitals installed, which were supposed to burn all night to “instill” courage to the travellers. But this measure, while partly responding to the demands of the time? Failed to meet the need for greater enlightenment/ In 1450 the increase in the number of night attacks prompted the Serenissima to decree a law that made the use of light mandatory for those who went through the city at night. It was thus that the figure of the “còdega” was born, a humble, popular profession, a kind of “illuminating” nocturnal companion, who for compensation and equipped with a lantern, guided the nobles and the rich back home from a show at the theatre or from a party. A term still in use today because when you want to point out to a person to be “too much” and make the third uncomfortable you use the Venetian expression “far el còdega”, that is to be a third wheel.

This picturesque figure disappeared when in 1732 the Council of Ten decided that the whole of Venice should be illuminated, ordered the installation of the first 843 “ferài” (lanterns) in the Merceri and San Marco areas, lamps powered by electric oil, protected by a glass bulb and attached to the walls of palaces, which were to remain illuminated until dawn. Thus, Venice was one of the first cities equipped with primitive urban lighting, paid for by a special tax that burdened all citizens, including nobles, but excluding the poorest. A power-on, power-off and proper operation of the plant ensured, for the order of the magistrate, the “impissaferai” or “impizadori”, which used the various types of oil on the market: the whale oil, linseed,beet, but also the one obtained from the pressing of the olives, the better, and therefore also the most expensive of all. The “ferài” were built by the “feraleri”, gathered in the school of the same name that was based at the Church of San Zulian.

It had to wait a century before the oil in “ferài” was replaced with gas lamps: in 1839, the municipal congregation signed a contract for the supply of gas with the French company “De Frigière, Cottin et Montgolfier-Bodin” (more commonly referred to as “La Lionese”). The company took on the task of distributing the new fuel throughout the city within six years and adding another 1,500 lanterns to the 1,368 already existing ones: these were lanterns attached with iron to the facades of buildings, or suspended on complex vertical cast iron pillars called lampposts or candlesticks. In 1843, a gas called the “Night Sun” was used for the first time to consecrate San Marco Square: in the same year, all the city lights were transformed, and the oil was replaced with gas. This was immediately crowned with success. The flame was switched on and off manually using long rods capable of opening or closing the gas leak tap. Only since the beginning of the XX century, an automatic spring clock with a charge lasting one week has been placed in each lamp.

In 1886, electricity marked a real turning point: first, an experiment was undertaken to illuminate the Giudecca area and some private houses, then, in 1922, the municipality decided to completely replace gas and began work on rationalizing the network, until in 1927 all “ferài” were switched to electricity. Since2011, the lamps have been replaced by low-energy LED sources, and today the total number of lights sources in the Municipality of Venice is 61,214 (42,185 on the mainland; 10,426 in the historical centre and 8,603 on the islands). Switching on and off of public lighting systems is carried out by means of astronomical-controlled clock devices installed on special electrical panels, which are automatically programmed according to the seasonal reference period.

For general reference, it should be noted that the total electricity consumption for public lighting is 17,101,284 kWh (which is equal to about 120,000 TVs that are always on all year round), and the annual per capita consumption is 66 kWh. Urban lighting in the las century was also crucial for the “liberation” of Venice, as Andrea Comoretto tells in the book “Una vita di lavoro per Venezia" (edizioni El squero). In Venice, he is called a man of light, the historical memory of the city. Andrea Comoretto, 90 years old, phenomenal memory, was born in Friuli, but lived in Venice, worked for 40 years in the service of first Sede, and then at the factory in the historical centre of Venice and on the islands.

“The public lighting played a pivotal role in Venice, - he says, - As in the case of the Hoax of the Goldoni Theatre, when my predecessor Bepi Turcato organized a break-in at the Goldoni announcing the liberation front of the German command, and then turning off the lights to escape without getting caught, or the dreaded Decima Mas when the lights went out of zone in the area, where the fascists were passed”. Graduated as an electrical expert in 1951, arriving in Venice Comoretto thought of finding a city with specific standards and solutions, “instead the workers climbed on the highest facades of the buildings, almost vertically, a system that I had never seen in other cities”. In charge of the technical department from 1964 to 1991, Comoretto was responsible for the electrification of Pellestrina, Torcello, Cavallino, Lio Piccolo and Treporti, illuminating the most peripheral areas of the lagoon. With passion, curiosity and common sense, Comoretto fought against bureaucracy and homologation to help find a particular environment such as Venice and its islands. After the high water of 1966, it is his intuition to raise the power units so that they could not suffer the tidal excursions, and if in 2019 the electricity network has not collapsed it is also his merit. “Forty years of improvement, looking for solutions and improvements – he smiles – I am not looking for medals but I can say that I worked with commitment and that if they had listened to us certain things, we could have avoided them”. In fact, all Venetians who have lived in this time frame can recognize that quality of life has improved along with the improvements of electricity grid.

The exhibition is open from Tuesday to Sunday, from 16:00 to 20:00.

 

 

 

Fashion shows, meetings, and events to enjoy the latest fashion and celebrate the birthday of Venice

Venice, October 19, 2021- Fashion, colors, and fabrics intertwine and create new clothes. Innovations and new trends will be put at the center of the Venice Fashion Week, the Venetian event entirely dedicated to clothes, dresses, craftsmanship and new creations. The initiative, which takes part into the celebrations for the 1600 years of Venice, will pay tribute to the world of bespoke tailoring, creativity and to the city of Venice with events, meetings and fashion shows spread all over the symbolic locations of the city.

Until October 30, the little squares of Venice (campi), ancient buildings and the rooms of the historic Venetian hotels will frame the previews of new collections, always keeping an open outlook toward the future and the innovation of fashion.

The next date is scheduled for October 20, 6.00PM, and will be held in Palazzo Sagredo that on the occasion will be turned into a creative workshop where bespoke tailoring meets new innovative fabrics and the ancient techniques of manual fabric pleating create three-dimensional origami clothes, design brings new life to unique outerwear and creative accessories entertain the divas of Venice Dolce Vita.

On October 21, again at 6.00PM, Lunardelli Venezia carpentry will make a boutique hotel turning into a space of imagination, showing how all over the world wood speaks of Venice.

Venice Fashion Week full program is available at https://www.venicefashionweek.com.

This event aims to introduce new talents in fashion and to promote Venice as a manufacturing and creativity center, where it is possible to create the future of fashion. Venice Fashion Week is a project created by “Venezia da Vivere”, in collaboration with “Tavolo Veneto della Moda”, “Associazione Piazza San Marco”, and “Venice Photo Lab”.

All the events are free. Reservation is required, and can be booked by sending an email to hello@veneziadavivere.com. All the events will also be broadcasted on the official social accounts @VeniceFashionWeek, @Veneziadavivere and @IgersVenezia, as well as at www.venicefashionweek.com, and Veneziadavivere.com.

The Bussolà Forte of Murano reinvent itself for the 1600 years of Venice

Bibliographic research, art, contamination, manual skills, teamwork. These are the keywords behind the project that led a group of people from Murano and Venice, lovers of traditions and history of Venice, to rediscover the “Bussolà Forte”. We are talking about a pastry whose origins date back in 1600, when traces can be found in the daily diary of a Murano glassmaker, Francesco Luna, who refers to it as a food present on a wedding banquet.

Today this typical pastry from Murano is experiencing a revival, thanks to its ancient recipe handed down in Murano from family to family, wrapped in a new modern and creative packaging specifically designed to celebrate the 1600 years from the foundation of Venice. The Bussolà Forte was born during an evening when some friend from Venice and Murano (Fabio Busetto, Gherardo Toso, Marco Toso Borella, Alberto Toso Fei, Roberto Mazzetto) met for a “creative chat”  in the old workshop of the Tintoretto, as usually happened in the old literary cafes of the Cannaregio district, in Campo dei Mori. A magic place, an atelier, but at the same time a typography, a graphic studio, a laboratory where ideas were born, inspired by who in that place lived and worked: Jacopo Robusti, also known as the Tintoretto.

“The Bussolà Forte is a typical pastry from the island of Murano, since there’s no other place where you can eat it- says Gherardo Toso from Murano, owner of a typical Venetians tavern, pastry chef and creator of the recipe- A really unique pastry, that dates back to the Middle age and deepens its roots in ancient times, its ingredients contain the history of Venice. We have flour, molasses and not sugar, candied and dried fruits, chocolate and spices which made Venice fortune, like nutmeg, cinnamon, and white pepper.

It is a pastry created by our ancestors, we simply reproduced it on the occasion of the 1600 years of Venice, since here in Murano it was eaten only on two particular days: on March 25, Day of the Annunciation which corresponds with the supposed birth date of Venice, and December 6, feast of San Nicolò, the island patron Saint. “

Once it is ready, in this special edition the “Bussolà Forte” is laid into a decorated paperbox, which is itself a masterpiece. An octagonal-shaped box, with a hole at the center, which recalls the real Venetian “vera da pozzo”.

“We found ourselves under the roof of the Tintoretto, and we like to work on projects related to the history of Venice- explains Roberto Mazzetto, of the Bottega del Tintorello-. We work with paper; we fold it and this octagon inspired us to bet on this shape: we don’t produce boxes but masterpieces. We worked on the height, forced by the size of the pastry, which is itself another masterpiece. It wasn’t designed until we were asked to create it. It is the result of manual skills and transformation. The sealing wax secures the box and protects the package for the customer who will receive it. All the boxes are handmade, and the sealing wax certifies the authenticity of the product. The stamp with the cockerel recalls the island of Murano from which the Bussolà Forte came from”.

On the sides of the box, which contains the pastry made in Murano and dedicated to the 1600 years of Venice, are engraved some phrases inspired by the daily diary of Francesco Luna, glassmaker from Murano who “described itself according to what happened around him”, says Marco Toso Borella, glassmaker and historian that, together with Alberto Toso Fei, dug through books and collections to learn perfectly the genesis of the pastry Bussolà Forte.

One of the inscriptions on the box says, “…today at the wedding there was Bussolà Forte”. “With this phrase Luna wanted to focus the attention on the Bussolà as a symbol of celebration. Murano was a keeper of many glass secrets, an island within an island. He minded his own coin, the “osella” which was given to the master glassmakers to make them feel noble. The Bussolà thus became a symbol of the peculiarity of Murano, which meant to be privileged. The search for the original recipe and its presentation, make the box part of the project, because it tells everything that stands behind it. Venice has always represented the reaction of what was happening around it: Venice and Murano were pragmatic. The Bussolà was the pastry made in Murano by us, for us, and for those who wish to eat it. In this case for those who want to know not simply its taste but also its history”.

Fabio Busetto was the glue that held all this group of Venetians and Murano friends together. Each one with his own peculiarity. Putting them together, during one of the Thursday evenings spent in the Tintoretto workshop, gave birth to this idea, this project.

“The packaging was born to enhance the 1600 years of Venice, we wanted to find a different kind of celebration, to involve and connect those who will taste the Bussolà Forte, discovering it- says Fabio Busetto-. This is a team value, as it is the city itself: different talents have created a product that wants to represent the 1600 years of the city. Production for now is limited but we are arranging with Venetian’s bakers and confectioners to produce Bussolà Forte in larger quantities, so that it can be not just a niche product. Soon we will have a website and dedicated social accounts and we will not stop on March 25, 2022. Because our aim is to make this, and other Venetian traditions, known even beyond the celebrations of the 1600 years of Venice.”

 

 

The return of the Redentore in Venice. The history of an event that recalls the end of an epidemic

Venice, July 13th, 2021 -The Redentore, one of the most awaited celebrations for the venetians, this year has a greater resonance as Venice celebrates its 1600 years from its foundation. Celebrated on Saturday July 17th, 2021, it recalls the end of the terrible plague epidemic that hit the city between 1575 and 1577. Venetians call it “Redentore”, and it is part of the costumes and culture of Venice citizens which continue on renovating gastronomic traditions and celebrations handed down by their ancestors that made, through years, this globally known venetian event as one of the city’s most famous touristic attraction. 

The origin of the Redentore

Every year, the Redentore is celebrated on the third Sunday of July. It is a religious celebration established on July 20th, 1576, to recall the end of the plague epidemic that destroyed the city between the ’75 and ’77 of the 16thcentury, becoming the second worst city epidemic after the one of 1348. This contagious disease caused, in thoseyears, the death of more than 50 thousand people, a third of the venetian population. It was the 4th of September 1576 when the Senate of the Serenissima Republic chose to establish the church dedicated to the Cristo Redentore in order to eradicate the plague from Venice. The first stone of the church, projected by Andrea Palladio, was laid on May 3rd, 1577. From that time on, the church of Redentore became the symbol of a decisive moment for the city of Venice that, in the same year in which the works for the construction of the church began, was freed by a plague that had almost destroyed the city. 

On the day of the first Redentore, in 1577, in order to celebrate the end of the epidemic, venetians built a bridge of boats that connected the island of Giudecca, where the church of Cristo Redentore was being built. On this bridge, the first religious parade took place and, after 444 years, still is part of the celebration rituals. In the past, the votive bridge, which used to be made of boats placed one near the other, today is built with several wooden pieces put together and placed on floating supports that allow people to cross the Giudecca canal, walking from Zattere (from the Santo Spirito church) until the church of the Redentore, on the other side of the canal. This temporary pedestrian way is crossed by the majority of venetians and by tourists, in order to reach the island of Giudecca on the days of the Redentore. The bridge will be open on the evening of July 16th.

The Redentore from the past to the present: how the celebrations evolved throughout years

Several were the days entirely dedicated to the Redentore in the 1800s. On Saturday, the first day of the celebrations, people used to go with their own boats, fully decorated with flowers, enlightened balloons and leafy branches in the island of Giudecca. There, along the shores, little stands selling fennels, blackberries, lemon balm water of the Padri Carmelitani Scalzi, sole fishes with saor, duks and roasted chickens, are located. Then, the tradition said, venetians had to move by boat towards the island of Lido at dawn. On Sunday morning, a religious parade used to take place, beginning from the St. Mark’s Basilica and crossing the canal, through the votive bridge, until reaching the church of the Redentore. Eventually, in the evening, people could watch the firework show. 

 

Today, the celebrations of the Redentore are very faithful to the ones of the past. In addition to the votive bridge, opened on Friday evening before the show and the religious parade, the Redentore is celebrated by venetians on the Giudecca shores, directly on board, with fully decorated and docked boats in the Giudecca canal, or with long tables where family and friends can taste Venice traditional food. This tradition will be kept also this year, although with some changes both on land and on water due to the Covid-19 containment measures. 

On the night between Saturday and Sunday, within St. Mark’s Basin, the fireworks show of the Redentore, an event that attracts tourists from all over the world colouring the venetian sky and giving even greater light to its beauty. This year, as Venice celebrates its 1600 years, fireworks will have a special theme, not only related to colours but also to the images that will be portrayed in the sky. 

 

Sunday is entirely dedicated to the Regattas of the Redentore, venetian rowing competitions on traditional venetian boats, from the gondolas to the pupparini, which take place on the afternoon and on the Sunday that follows the day of the Redentore on the Giudecca Canal with rowing champions for different categories. 

 

 

Marco Polo and the Million translated into Latin-Venetian by the preachers of San Giovanni and Paolo

Sometimes discoveries are made at random, or perhaps assisted by luck. Or maybe just by lifting a hem of a parchment that reveals one of the most evoked Venetian names in the world. Marco Polo with his Million, a historical and geographical treatise, A Travel Book, is still considered a masterpiece of Italian literature for its relevance. Marco Polo’s million has come a long way, and still will, because there are so many curiosities that scholars have not finished investigating. A recent discovery by Ca’Foscari University scholars opens new scenarios on the clos relationship between the Venetian Marco Polo and the Friars Dominicans of the Basilica of San Giovanni and Paolo. In the initiatives that the friars have organized on the occasion of the 1600 years of Venice, Marco Polo therefore will be a real protagonist. From Friday 11 June, at 15:00, weekly guided tours will be organized to know the most famous people whose remains are kept inside the Basilica. It will be an opportunity to talk about the Dominicans, who translated from the vulgar to Latin “The Million” to facilitate its spread and make it a kind of guide for the evangelization of the East. It all starts from the discovery, by Marcello Bolognari, in the first year of Ca’Foscari doctorate in Italian studies, of a document hitherto unpublished and unknown that shows the presence, and the role, of Marco in the Dominican Convent of Venice after his return from captivity in Genoa. 

The discovery of the parchment with the quote poliana dated 31 march 1323 basically has two triggers: a direct and indirect – explains Bolognari – the indirect one was the communication of the testament of Marco Polo, by Attilio Bartoli of Angels in 2019, that returned to the historical truth in the name of one of the two Dominican friars, mentioned by Marco in his last will. The direct fuse was instead the happy intuition of Antonio Montefusco of the Ca’Foscari University, who suggested the importance that would have had the research in the State Archive of Venice, and the Fund of the Santi Giovanni e Paolo, of other documents that attest to the presence of these two friars, called Benevenuto e Cetorio o Centurio”.

The parchment is in Latin, written by a Paduan notary and essentially certifies the acceptance by the Dominican friers, gathered in the chapter, of a huge bequest by a rich and probably Venetian merchant of the Santa Trinità called Giovanni Dalle Boccole, who had died in 1321. This legacy, as the attestator himself specifies, was intended “all’amplificazione” of the Church of Santi Giovanni and Paolo. The discovery of the parchment is important because it leaves no doubt on the actual existence of a close exchange between the merchant and the preachers, that he did as a translation of “Z” of the book, i.e., Latin, venetian, and among the signatories gathered a chapter in the convent, appears the name of “Marco Paulo de confinio Sancti Iohannis Grisostomi”. 

“The parchment in question attests to the presense of Marco Polo, in the chapter of the friars preachers of Santi Giovanni e Paolo di Venezia – continuous Bolognari – This term is particulary important for two reasons: the first is that we have an assessment of the life of Marco Polo once he has returned from travel in China, in 1295, and thus servers to illuminate a new stage in the journey of Marco. The theory that is almost confirmed by these documents is that Marco Polo, once returned to Venice from the Genoese captivity ended in 1299, had revised a new version of his work together with the preachers of the Santi Giovanni e Paolo, then the Venetian Friars”.

One of the curiosities of this story concerns its random discovery. “It is large – says the scholar – and the most curious thing is that Marco’s name was under a fold. We didn’t notice until we just lifted that flap”. 

The relationship between the venetian traveller and the friars should be also considered in the scenario, between 1200 and 1300, sees a missionary impulse in the East: Marco Polo, was evidently a person of full confidence of the Order, within the chapter of the venetian convent, and his book was a fundamental tool for the evangelization due to the information and knowledge anthropological Oriental customs. 

“The curious aspect of the Million of is that there is a version of the original Franco-Italian written to Genoa with Rustichello da Pisa during the captivity, but the success of this work was so immediate and overwhelming that substantially of the original version, we have only one manuscript, while it has been translated many times in Catalan, in the vernacular Venetian, Emilian, in Latin several times – ends Bolognari – So let’s say that the Million is known because it is multilingual and non-original language: primarily latinizzazioni (Latinization) are very much tied to the Dominican Order. This particular version nicknamed “Z” by scholars has additions compared to the Franco-Italian version that are said to be original. So, it was not clear how it was possible that this Latin version had more details than the Franco-Italian version. The idea we got is that Marco Polo, once back in Venice, has dedicated himself to add other pieces to his work, maybe after a few talks. So, this “Z” version has additional details, which we believe were made by Marco with the Friars”.

 

For the information and registration https://www.santigiovanniepaolo.it/eventi/.

   

 

A series of video to rediscover the history of Malamocco and celebrate Venice birthday

Venice, October 13th, 2021 – Archaeological findings, artifacts, tools that date back to the XIII century and testimonies of the ancient history of Malamocco are the main characters of a series of videos realized to value the museum of the island of the venetian lagoon and to celebrate Venice birthday in a very important year for the city and its 1600 years of history. Testimonies gathered in the 90s during digging works at Campo della Chiesa in Malamocco and preserved today in the museum of the island, will again be part of the cultural debate thanks to the intervention of several prominent personalities of the Venetian cultural, political and historical world in order to try to guard not only objects, but also the collective memory, tracing back the ancient history that paved the way to the foundation of the city of Venice and to a symbol of its lagoon: the island of Malamocco.

The project “Museo Transformer da Metamauco a Malamocco”, developed from an idea of MarVe - Marine archaeology research Venice & EVR – Equipe Veneziana di Ricerca (Venetian research team) in partnership with the Associazione culturale Prometeo di Padova (Prometeo cultural association of Padua) and the Compagnia teatrale Teatro del Go di Venezia (Theatrical Company Go of Venice), directed by Franca Zannoni and Francesco Coralli, edited by Daniele Zoico, owner of the Danto Production, begins on October 15th with the release of a video every week for 6 weeks in a row, until November 19th. 

Videos on the Transformer Museum will be published on MarVe - Marine archaeology research Venice social media pages (InstagramFacebookTwitter e YouTube). These videos will entertain both fans and people that are just curious to know more with fun facts, little stories and explanations about some exhibition paths that will include both the story of Malamocco and the story of Venice, with an approach that looks at the future of archaeological research and emphasize the importance of the enormous cultural and archaeological heritage of the City of Venice.

“Capitan Pipa” will be the mascot of the event recalling, in an animated version realized by Rachele Coralli, Commander and founder of the MarVe association Roberto Padoan.

Watch the video: https://vimeo.com/625347533/643b43a90e

 

The “Champions of the oar” challenge each other on the occasion of the Redeemer Festival. The history of the regatta tied to the world-famous event

Venice, July 17, 2021- This year, on the occasion of the Feast of the Redeemer (Festa del Redentore), the traditional Venetian rowing competition (regatta) is back, and pits 18 Venetians contestants compete to win the title of the race linked to the festival most felt by Venetians. 

There will be three challenges with nine crews that will compete on gondola and pupparini, both using two oars and each of a different color, from purple to “canarin” (yellow), from blue to brown, from white to pink, red, green, and orange, according to a tradition that dates back to 1843, born to allow spectators to easily follow the race along the waterfronts. Nine colors to differentiate between nine challengers struggling with a Venetian rowing sprint that will take place on Sunday, July 18, starting at 4PM with a path from the Church of the Redeemer and then crossing the Giudecca Canal, the Fusina Canal, the so-called “paleto” (half-race) in S. Giorgio in Alga, and then back again to the Church of the Redeemer where the winners are announced.  

The Redeemer Regata 2021 will see young Venetians compete on pupparini using two oars, men on pupparini using two oars and men on gondolas using two oars, during three competitions on water starting from the youngster at 4PM, before moving to men on pupparini at 4.45PM and, finally, the most awaited challenge: men on gondolas, at 5.30PM. Venice Municipality kept repeating this competition for a hundred years and the only long stop occurred during the years from 1925 to 1957, in the historical period close to the Second World War and in the post war period. 

The event occurs every third Sunday of July during the celebrations of the famous event, and represents an essential step for the rowing season as well as a deeply felt sporting event which is experienced with passion by citizens, competitors, people interested in Venetian rowing and tourists. 

Winners of the Redeemer Regatta since 1920 

The Redeemer competition is an event that adds color and folklore to a world-famous event, the Feast of the Redeemer, whose celebrations are also enriched with a rowing contest that announce, each year, different winners of this specific type of rowing competition. 

The first edition of the Redeemer Regatta dates back to 1920 and has seen as “gondola champions of the oar”, according to the roll of honor of the Redeemer, the teams composed by Giovanni Vianello, Cucchiero Crea and Arturo Scuciare, winners of three consecutive editions, later replaced by the couple that won 9 straight editions of this race, out of a total of 12, from 2002 to 2011, and then in 2014 and 2015: the legendary rowing competitors Ivo Tezzat Redolfi and Giampaolo D’Este. Among the others that marked the history of this Venetians competition we want also to remember Giuseppe Bepi Fontegher and Sergio Ciaci Tagliapietra, winners and team’ mates throughout 8 editions of the race, from 1965 to 1977 and, the latter, winner since 1961 together with Albino Stringheta Dei Rossi. 

During the last two editions, the Redeemer Regatta, was won by Andrea Bertoldini and Mattia Colombi, in the gondola with two oars competition. While in the category pupparini with two oars, Simone Costantini and Federico Busetto won last year and, for what concern the youngest, Luca Rigo and Giorgio Sabadin were awarded with the title of champions of the Redeemer Regatta 2020. 

Cisame de pesse: the recipe of the most ancient saor in history from a book of the 1300s 

Venezia, 11 ottobre 2021 – “Take the fish, fry it, boil some onions, chop and then fry them. Then take some water, vinegar, almonds, raisins and honey, boil all together and then add the fish”. That’s how an unknown cook used to write in the 1300s to explain the recipe of the “Cisame de pesse”, which is basically the predecessor of what we now call saor. Discovered by Ludovico Frati, curator of the manuscripts of the library of the university of Bologna, the book “Anonimo veneziano” was first published in 1899. It includes more than 130 medieval venetian recipes, mainly characterized by the use of spices. 

Anna Santini e Andrea Michelon knows it very well. They are chef teachers at the Istituto Venezia, where they teach Italian through the kitchen. This is a way to convey a traditional cuisine that preserves, in every single ingredient, a piece of everyday history. Indeed, every recipe hides its own historical and artistic heritage, and this attracts students’ attention since they aim at pursuing the essence and original character of Venice, throughout its 1600 years of history. 

And so, from September, students can sit and pretend to be eating with a venetian celebrity: Doge Enrico Dandolo, poetess Veronica Franco, Giacomo Casanova and the adopted venetian Peggy Guggenheim. We talk about Venice; its historical context and we cook and eat dishes that they probably used to eat in the past. 

It is precisely at the time of Dandolo that fits the “Anonimo veneziano”, among fragrant dishes that recalls the East, faraway lands, chickens, broths, herbs, savours, ginger, cinnamon, sour, almond, almond milk, fish, honey and much more. 

Among these, Anna and Andrea often chose the most ancient saor recipe in history: the cisame de pesse and the chicken ambroyno, a dish that no longer exist in the venetian kitchen and in which dates, plums, almonds, a bitter grape juice, lard and some saffron are added. Cooking them again is not easy at all, although the final taste gets very close to what it originally used to be.

“The cisame de pesse is the first proof of what will later be transformed into our saor. Moreover, its ingredients are also very similar, although in the past they used to add peeled almonds instead of pine nuts, honey and strong spices – they explain -. The ambroyno is a recipe that got lost around the 1500s, after the dramatic fall of the venetian spices market. Spices used to be added in every recipe, although in very high quantities, as well as almonds and almond milk. Besides, the original venetian kitchen was a fusion that entailed the use of local products and mixed them following Arabic, Ottoman, Levantine, Jewish, Armenian, Greek influences. Perhaps, today we do not have the same dishes that used to be written in books, although the concept of “fusion” has been maintained and transmitted until today”. 

The thing is that very often, recipes kept in the Anonimo are thought for at least 12 people, since it seems that they are referred to the dishes prepared by Nicola Salimbeni, a cook that used to write the recipes he prepared for 12 gluttons that spent all their money in tasty and expensive banquets. A book written at the end of the 1200s, later lost and that, according to some philologists, was used as inspiration for some recipes of the Anonimo. Among scents, pans, boiling water and frying onions students can fully get in touch with the venetian culture. 

“They come here because they look for authenticity, they don’t want contamination but the real and original recipe – Anna and Andrea conclude – Germans are the ones that more than others love Venice and Italy, its art, culture and kitchen. Swiss, Austrians and Dutch also have a great passion for Venice. Americans love Italy too, although several are the stereotypes that need to be eliminated first, such as the idea that our kitchen is full of garlic or that mushrooms go with the carbonara”.

Favourite dish? Above all, for everybody there is the “king” of the Venetian kitchen: the baccalà mantecato (creamed cod) with polenta, followed by the parmigiana and the beloved tiramisu.

 

 

A bridge of peace between Venice and Beirut through the drawing of five hundred children

Venice, October 8, 2021- Five hundred children turn the spotlight on the question of peace and build a bridge that strengthens friendship and solidarity between two cities connected by the Mediterranean. From Venice to Beirut, passing through the Covid era: the pupils of seven different primary schools mark the beginning of the international educational project “Disegni a 1000 mani, Venezia-Beirut” (A hundred hands drawings, Venice-Beirut), which takes part into the celebrations for the 1600 years from the foundation of Venice. Art becomes the universal language, a symbol of peace that connects Italy and Lebanon. 

Born by the idea of Nadia De Lazzari, chairwoman of the association “Venezia: pesce di pace” (Venice: the fish of peace), the event will take place on Tuesday, October 12 at 10AM, at the Giardini Reali (Royal Gardens) of Venice, when kids will cross the drawbridge, which connects the Giardini to the Marciana area, as a symbolic gesture of closeness to all the children of the world. The drawings, containing messages of joy, friendship, and solidarity, will be hung on the historic pergola that crosses the Royal Gardens, surrounded by the magic and thick greenery. 

The project was launched around schools last year, in the midst of the pandemic, and it gains an even more deeper meaning since it was born in Venice, a city that has always been a crossroads of culture and intercultural dialogue between peoples, and that this year celebrate its 1600 anniversary from the foundation of the city. The proposed topics were two: “Venice and Beirut, our cities” and “Us at school: the Covid-19 pandemic”. Kids from the cities of Venice and Cavallino-Treporti drew on one side, while the overleaf was completed by kids from Beirut.

“30 years have passed since the first long-distance drawing we made together. It was by a kid from Venice and one from Sarajevo, a city that I visited 40 times during the war- says De Lazzari- last year, in the midst of the pandemic, with my mask on and respecting all the safety measures, I went around schools. It has been a challenging cultural project during a difficult time, but the support and collaboration of teachers and families have been crucial. The pupils have portrayed Venice, Cavallino-Treporti, Beirut and the Covid-19 pandemic. On the overleaf they wrote messages advising caution and inviting people to get vaccinated, so that they could still play and attend school in the future. Two little pupils summarized: you and I made a masterpiece. This is not a simple drawing; this is a lifelong commitment”.

The project was attended by 14 artists, seven from Italy and seven from Lebanon who, just as done by the children (one begins and the other complete), tried to connect East and West, each with their own style, and donate their works to the seven participating schools. The paintings, characterized by the harmony of lines and colors, underline the huge cultural, historical and artistic heritage of the two countries, strengthening cooperation and solidarity between the two. 

Venicemarathon 2021: a 42km race through the Venetians villas of the Riviera del Brenta up to the heart of Venice

Venice, October 4, 2021 - A unique path, one of the most suggestive marathons in the world, that runs through the original landscape of the Venetians countryside until the heart of Venice. 42km and 195 meters made of sport, art, history, and culture. The Venicemarathon reaches its thirty-fifth edition this year, during the anniversary for the celebrations of the 1600 year since the foundation of the city. Not just a race, but a meeting point for thousands of athletes from all over the world. A big date, internationally recognized, to which the organizers decided to dedicate a special tribute, a medal especially made for the 1600 anniversary of Venice, designed by the famous American graphic designer Milton Glaser. Engraved on it “Venice 421-2021” and the imagine of the winged lion, representing St. Mark in the role of a runner, with jogging shoes on its feet. A collector’s piece that will be hung around the neck of each competitor, at the end of both races, the 42km and the 10km. 

Running the Venicemarathon means running through the art and history of Venice, an unmatched path in the whole world, a place full of historical, cultural, and environmental suggestions, such as the Venetian villas overlooking the Riviera del Brenta. 

The starting line is one of the most famous Venetian villas, Villa Pisani in Stra: the majestic eighteenth-century work once belonging to the Pisani noble family. The first part of the path touches some of the most breathtaking aristocratic residences of the Riviera: from the sixteenth century Villa Badoer-Fattoretto, belonging to the trader and Politician of the Serenissima Giacomo Badoer, through the eighteenth-century Villa Widman and the eclectic Villa Fernanda, also known as the “fairy house”, due to its late gothic architecture style, up to Villa Foscari, called La Malcontenta, a real jewel designed by the Italian Renaissance architect Andrea Palladio and designated as a UNESCO World Heritage Site from 1994.

Passing the milestone of the half-marathon, the race comes alive near the city of Marghera and then continues toward Mestre, along the brand-new multimedia museum M9. Two more kilometers toward Parco San Giuliano and the athletes of the short distance race, the VM10K, join the marathon to run the last stretch, the most special and evocative that, crossing the Ponte della Libertà ( a narrow strip made of asphalt and Istrian stone of almost 4km), brings the runners to the port area of Venice. Here athletes run on the “Zattere” quaysides (alongside the Giudecca Canal), reaching Punta della Dogana, where they cross the Grand Canal over a purposely built floating bridge. After the “honor lap” around St. Mark’s Square, under the shadow of the Campanile (Bell tower) and next to the Doge’s Palace, the final push leads in Riva Sette Martiri, where the finish line waits for the athletes. 

The Venicemarathon is a big event dedicated to the world of running but it also promotes the healthy values of sport. This year, for the fourth consecutive, the Paralympic athlete Giusy Versace, beyond playing the role of godmother of the event, will take part to the “Venicemarathon Charity Program”, a fundraising project promoted by the non-profit association that she founded “Disabili No Limits”, aimed at supporting sports practices among people with disabilities. 

An extremely charming race, therefore, both for the runners and for the spectators. A route that spurs and enchants, thanks to the beauty of the Venetians landscape, allowing the public and marathon to savor the taste of the race while surrounded by one of the most suggestive scenarios in the world. But, above all, a race that allows athletes, now more than ever, to run along the history of the Serenissima Republic. Villas, rivers, canals, gardens, little views and monuments full of the great charm that this city, and its 1600 years, has. 

October 7th, 1571: The Battle of Lepanto, 450 years ago. At the Doge’s Palace, the triumph of the Venetian army in the masterpiece by Vicentino

 Venice, October 6th, 2021 – At first sight, chaos seems to prevail although eventually, the composition turns out to be a clever one. A canvas filled with galleys, soldiers, and weapons. The outbreak of the battle and soldiers who fell under the blows of swords. It’s October 7th, 1751, precisely 450 years ago and this is the greatest naval victory ever achieved by the city of Venice. 

Tomorrow the city will celebrate this day with several events that will be added to the celebrations for the birth of Venice, 1600 years ago.  

A gaze to the painting The Battle of Lepanto, is enough to fully understand the importance of this event. It is displayed at the hall of the Scrutinio within the Doge’s Palace in Venice, the heart of the city, and the political body of the Serenissima. The walls of the huge hall of the first floor – in which activities that characterized the venetian political life, such as deliberations and ballot box operations were carried out – prove the battles won between 809 and 1656, in addition to the victory of the battle of Lepanto that for sure is one of the biggest and most important masterpieces of the whole palace. This work of art was signed by Andrea Vicentino, although no date was reported in this painting. For sure, its Battle of Lepanto was realized after the fire of Palazzo Ducale in 1577, when the painting by Tintoretto was destroyed.

Allied troops differed from the Ottomans in clothes and weapons. Their admirals are on the stern of the ship, they are calm and apparently not concerned. Sebastiano Venier, the Venetian main character of the event and future Doge of the Serenissima, is portrayed together with his pageboy, standing still, bear headed in the first line, ignoring any danger. Don Giovanni d’Austria, Spanish commander and half-brother of Philip II, is portrayed almost on the right side and Marcantonio Colonna, the Pope soldier, is at the stern of the galleys, behind the flag of the League, characterized by the image of Jesus on the cross. To these three galleys on the right, three Turkish vessels are located on the left, under the control of admiral Ali Pascha.

Ottoman captains' concern underlines the tension of that moment. The  galley of Venier had just hit the Turkish one and Venetian troops went to fight their sea enemies, among dead bodies of janissaries and castaways  with turbans on their heads. The clash of vessels was so hard that Turkish lookouts were thrown into the sea. At the bottom of the painting, fighting scenes allow the observer to join the toughness and brutality of hand-to-hand combat, as well as the sufferings of the defeated, their courage and their heroic will to resist. The struggle of individual fighters reflects the conflict of the world powers of those times.

To create the painting, artist Andrea Vicentino read many books and studied graphic reproductions of that time. This is what we can see on the painting, which represents exactly what history taught us. In 1570 Venice was no longer the undisputed powerful dominator of the Mediterranean, and the Ottoman Empire put their eyes on Cyprus island, landing there in forces. The Serenissima appeals to Pope Pio V, that the following year shook the Holy League under Christian signs whilst the only city that resisted to the Turkish power was Famagosta, animated by the brave Marcantonio Bragadin that little by little, after being tortured, was killed by Ottomans.

The news sets sail the Christian fleet from Messina on September 16th,1571: thousands of galleys, vessels, and smaller units with 30 or 50 thousand sailors and rowers. It was Venice that provided the highest number of warships with hundreds of boats. On October 6th the Turkish admiral left the bay of Lepanto with as many units assuming the half-moon arrangement. The Holy League deployed six venetian galleys, heavy and solid cargo units transformed into powerful war machines inside the Arsenal of Venice. It was October 7th when the two fleets began to advance towards each other: galleys of the Holy League violently hit the Turkish that lost many units, although the final clash happened shortly after, when the two ships touched each other. Enemy ships were pushed through the coastline where they were grounded or sunk and so Turkish jumped into the water to save themselves. 

The turmoil of the Ottoman army will be followed by a carnage. The victory was huge: 13 captured galleys, 90 sunk or crashed on the shore and 3800 prisoners. Nevertheless, the League losses were also many: 7650 deaths and 7800 wounded. The enemy was harshly defeated. The League did not follow him and soon will be dissolved.

A triumph of great symbolic and emotional value. Many years will pass before the Turkish fleet will come back to face naval clashes and the supremacy of the Mediterranean, so the Serenissima supremacy will remain untouched for more than one century. From a technical standpoint, the victory of the Christian fleet marked the last great medieval battle, fought by means of rowing boats.